Pasta e Fagioli

5 Min + Soaking Beans
60-80 Minutes
4
Pasta
California
Pasta e fagioli is a canonical example of cucina povera. The term, literally "poor cooking," refers to dishes developed under conditions of scarcity, using inexpensive, shelf-stable, or locally available ingredients.
While I love an elaborate, saucy, decadent mess of a dish, nothing gives me that Anton-Ego-eating-a-bite-of-ratatouille "Hitchcock zoom" moment like a dish built with purpose: humble ingredients composed into something that doesn't just feed, but also nourishes.
American pasta e fagioli (or “pasta fazool” for you Dean Martin fans) is usually closer to minestrone than the real thing. It tends to be quite soupy and heavily tomato based. An "authentic" version would be a tricky thing to pin down, as there are likely as many versions of this dish in Italy as there are nonnas, and probably a few more. That said, a few trends emerge.
First, tomatoes are present most of the time, but usually in small amounts, just enough to build body and depth. Second, this really isn't a soup. Typically, the aromatics melt into the pot liquor and combine with starch from the pasta to create a simple, hearty sauce that clings to the pasta and beans. Pork is a common addition (though certainly not universal) — pancetta and guanciale are most likely, but lardo and cotica also appear in some recipes. And of course, don't forget the pecorino and a healthy glug of olive oil.
Ingredients
- ½ Pound Cranberry Beans (AKA Borlotti Beans), sorted (225 g)
½ Pound Ditalini or Small Shells (225 g)
1 tsp + ½ tsp Sea Salt, divided (6 g + 3 g)
¼ Stalk (3-4 ribs) Celery, diced small (100 g)
1 Small or ½ Medium Yellow Onion, diced small (100 g)
2 small Carrots, diced (100 g)
½ Pound Cherry Tomatoes (225 g)
2 Bay Leaves
2 TBS Good EVOO for Cooking (30 g)
2 TBS Butter (30 g)
2 x 2-inch Sprigs of Rosemary
Optional: dried peperoncino to taste
For Plating
- Pecorino
Recipe
Step 1
Ahead of time: Sort and rinse the cranberry beans, checking for debris, then cover with ½” of water in a medium pot and add 6 g salt. Soak for a minimum of 4 hours. If soaking overnight you can do it in the fridge.
Step 2
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
In a large pot sweat the onions, celery, and carrots in butter and oil. Add a touch of salt. When aromatic and translucent, add the tomatoes and turn up the heat to medium-high and cover. Cook for about five minutes until the tomatoes have blistered and burst. Stir vigorously to break up the tomatoes, then mix in the rosemary sprigs. Put the pot in the oven, with the lid slightly ajar, and roast for 30 minutes.
Step 3
After 30 minutes, remove the pot from the oven and discard the rosemary. Then, using a rubber spatula, transfer the roasted aromatics to a blender. Strain the water that the beans have bean soaking in into the blender and add the soaked beans to the cooking pot. Blend the aromatics and soaking water on high until smooth and creamy, then add that mixture back to the pot with the beans. Rinse the blender with a small amount of water, swirling to capture any remaining sauce, and add that to the pot as well. Add the bay leaves now.
Step 4
Cook the beans:
In an instant pot or pressure cooker: Cook for 18 minutes on high pressure then allow pressure to naturally release.
On the stovetop: Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, covered. Cook for 40-60 minutes until the beans are tender and sauce is rich and thick.
Step 5
When the beans are ready, cook the pasta in a separate pot of well-salted water until al dente - it should be slightly undercooked. Drain and reserve a bit of the pasta water to adjust the consistency of the final dish.
- If you are planning on saving some for leftovers, it’s best if you pull the beans and the pasta now and pack them away separately so the leftovers will not be mushy.
Step 6
Add the pasta to the beans and bring to a gentle simmer for a few minutes before serving, to marry the flavors and season the pasta. Adjust consistency with the reserved pasta water as needed - it should be moist and saucy but not overly loose or liquidy.
Step 7
Ladle into a broad, shallow bowl. Top with fresh grated Pecorino Romano, fresh cracked pepper, and generous pour of EVOO. Enjoy!